跳島玩透透 世界15大自然奇景「魔幻螢光海」就在馬祖 | Island-hopping among natural wonders — Matsu Islands’ magical fluorescent sea

【看CP學英文】馬祖位於西北部台灣海峽上,隸屬連江縣,與大陸僅呎水之隔,過去為保衛台澎的前哨,反共復國年代所留下的戰地文化風貌仍保存完整,除此之外,島上的傳統建築聚落與台灣風格迥異,一座座臨海山城讓這串遺落在太平洋的珍珠贏得台版小希臘」的美譽。 

Located on the northwest of the Taiwan Strait under the jurisdiction of Lianjiang County, the Matsu Islands are just a short swim away from the Chinese mainland. 

In the past, they served as an outpost for defending Taiwan and the Penghu Islands. Today, they are known for their traditional architecture which is distinct from the rest of Taiwan. 

This “string of pearls” floating in the Pacific, comprised of sea-side mountain towns, has earned its reputation as Taiwan’s “Little Greece.” 

芹壁部落又被稱為台版地中海。|Qinbi Tribe is also known as Taiwan’s Mediterranean village. (Courtesy of @a_j.couple: Instagram)

提到馬祖當然不能不提被CNN譽為「世界15大自然奇景」的藍眼淚,主要出現於3-9月,4-6月為旺季。之所以海面會散發藍光是因為殊的夜光藻,受到刺激即發出魔幻般的湛藍光芒,形成一生難以忘懷的藍眼淚夢幻景緻 

When talking about this island chain, it’s impossible not to mention the Blue Tears, hailed by CNN as one of the world’s “15 natural wonders.” 

Mainly blooming in March-September and April-June, the special nocturnal algae on the sea’s surface emits a magical azure glow when stimulated, creating an unforgettable dream-like landscape of “blue tears”. 

馬祖列島由數十座島嶼構成,共四鄉,而南竿為第一大島,也是馬祖的政經中心,住宿選擇南竿相對方便,只需搭船即可輕鬆跳島遊。前往馬祖有兩種交通方式,第一種從台灣基隆搭船至南竿約8小時,或是選擇較快的方法,從松山或台中國際機場飛往南竿,只需4050分鐘。 

The island of Matsu is composed of dozens of islands and four townships, of which Nangan is the largest island and its political and economic center. 

Accommodation in Nangan is relatively convenient, and island-hopping by boat is easy. There are two ways to reach the Matsu Islands: either an 8-hour or so boat ride from Keelung city to Nangan, or the faster way, flying from the international airports of Songshan or Taichung to Nangan (40-50 minutes). 

南竿島面積僅有10.64平方公里,雖然騎摩托車僅個下午就可還島卻蘊含了保存最完整的傳統石頭屋建築、遼闊山景、以及美不勝收的湛藍海景,安排三天兩夜跳島遊南竿北竿剛剛好。 

Nangan Island’s area only reaches 10.64 square kilometers, and although it can be toured in just one afternoon by motorbike, it contains the most well-preserved traditional stone houses, vast mountain views, and breathtaking blue sea. 

Planning a 3-day and 2-night tour from Nangan to Beigan makes for an ideal trip. 

夜幕降臨,南竿津沙部落點起暖烘烘的燈火,在滿天星斗下漫步,十分浪漫。|Night falls, and the Nangan Jinsha Tribe turns on its warm lantern lights, where one can take a romantic stroll under the starry sky. (Courtesy of @zian_taiwan/Instagram)
夜幕降臨,南竿津沙部落點起暖烘烘的燈火,在滿天星斗下漫步,十分浪漫。

騎上機車,首站來到北海坑道,步道全長700公尺,水道貫穿岩壁,坑道中打著黃色光芒,湖面上停著一艘艘搖櫓船,彷彿進入另一個世界。時間回溯到50年前,當時為供游擊戰艇停泊,馬祖開鑿了許多「地下碼頭」,而如今這些碼頭成為馬祖獨有的「戰地風情」。此地也是欣賞藍眼淚的熱點之一,夜幕垂垂,無光害的條件下,乘著搖櫓船,北海坑道搖身一變成為藍色夢幻啤酒海,彷彿成為《少年Pi的奇幻漂流》主角,航行在藍光粼粼的海面上,相當浪漫。 

Zooming on a scooter, the first stop is Beihai Tunnel, a 700-meter long subterranean waterway surrounded by rock wall glowing in yellow light, and a row of parked oar boats.  It’s as if you were entering an entirely different world. 

Rewinding 50 into the past, many underground docks had been built here to house guerrilla warships, but now it’s become a unique “battlefield” attraction for the island, as well as one of the best spots to enjoy the Blue Tears. 

Under a night sky unperturbed by any light, the Beihai tunnel transforms into a fantastical sea of sapphire, a phenomenon similar to that seen in the film “Life of Pi”, sailing through this idyllic shimmering water. 

3月至11月期間,遊客可以在北海坑道搭乘搖櫓船,探索馬祖藍眼淚。|From March to November, tourists can ride an oar boat into the Beihai Tunnel and uncover the Matsu’s Blue Tears.(Shutterstock)

逛完富含歷史意義的坑道,太陽西下,微風徐徐,天氣颯爽正是爬山健行的最佳時刻。標高248公尺的雲台山是南竿第一高峰,走上瞭望台,180度零死角無敵海景、馬祖列島映入眼簾,甚至連對岸北茭半島都清晰可見 

After visiting these historic tunnels, the sun begins to set as the breeze picks up, perfect for mountain hiking with cool weather. 

The 248-meter-high Yuntai Mountain is Nangan’s highest peak, equipped with an observation platform where visitors can see an unrivaled 180 degrees view of the ocean, other Matsu Islands, and even China’s Beijiao Peninsula. 

全島最高峰雲台山為小百岳之一,登至頂端展望極佳,馬祖看夕陽的最佳地點非此地莫屬。 |Yuntai Mountain, the highest peak in the island, is listed as one of the “100 Peaks of Taiwan”. It has an excellent summit view, and is best place to watch the sunset in the Matsu Islands. (Courtesy of @zian_taiwan:Instagram)

傍晚時分前往南竿津沙部落,踏著沙灘、欣賞最美夕陽,都市塵憂的疲憊感一掃而空。津沙部落有馬祖傳統閩東建築,但與北竿部落相比之下較為蕭瑟,藤蔓盤踞於石縫之中,在此神秘廢墟中穿梭,享受探險樂趣別有一番趣味。 

In the evening, head to Nangan’s Jinsha tribe to stroll on the beach and enjoy the most beautiful sunsets, sweeping away any worries or dust left from urban life. 

The Jinsha tribe still retains Matsu’s traditional Eastern Min architecture, but unlike Beigan’s Qinbi Tribe, its state is relatively bleak, with vines having grown deep into the stone cracks. 

Exploring these mysterious ruins is an adventurous treat in itself. 

南竿津沙部落|Nangan’s Jinsha Tribe (Courtesy of @yutzuchennn:Instagram)
南竿津沙部落保有傳統閩東建築,穿梭其間別有一番趣味。|Nangan’s Jinsha Tribe preserves traditional Eastern Min architecture, providing each shuttle ride with plenty to see. (Courtesy of @yutzuchennn:Instagram)

夜幕降臨,晚上入住舊軍事宿舍翻新改建的特色55據點背包客棧,卸下沈重的行囊,走出客棧,滿天星斗映照著臉龐,彷彿迎接每位到訪旅客。繁星點點的夜空下,站在客棧私人瞭望台,觀賞馬祖藍眼淚,捕捉令人感動的難忘美景。 

As day become night, visitors can stay at No. 55 Hostel (55據點背包客棧), renovated from a former military barracks, and after unloading our heavy luggage, walk back outside to see how the starlight bathes every visitor’s face as if greeting them. 

Under this starry sky, you can watch Matsu’s Blue Tears while standing on the hostel’s private observation deck and take in such an unforgettably marvelous scenery. 

馬祖藍眼淚。攝於55據點背包客棧瞭望台。|Blue Tears, Matsu Islands. View from No. 55 Hostel’s lookout. (Courtesy of @zian_taiwan/Instagram)

隔天起床前往福澳港乘船,每兩小時一班,現場購買全票160元,僅需10多分鐘即抵達北竿鄉。北竿必訪景點之一壁部落被譽為「馬祖地中海」,是目前保存的最完整、最大的馬祖閩東傳統建築聚落。古城倚著山勢呈階梯狀排列、面向湛藍大海,來到此喝杯咖啡、享用早午餐,濃厚異國風情,宛如置身於地中海,在此消磨一整天完全不是問題。 

On the next day, take the boat that leaves Fuao Port for Beigan Township every two hours by purchasing a full-trip ticket there (NT$160). After just a 10-minute ride, you’ve reached the Qinbi Tribe, one of Beigan’s must-visit spots. 

Known as the Matsu’s “Mediterranean” town, it currently possesses the largest and most complete settlement of Eastern Min traditional architecture, whose old town leans upward against the mountain, facing the ocean. 

 

Go there for a cup of coffee and brunch to soak in this exotic, Mediterranean-like atmosphere — spending the entire day here shouldn’t be a problem at all. 

芹壁為馬祖保留最大最完整的閩東傳統建築部落。|The Qinbi Tribe retains the largest and most complete collection of traditional Eastern Min architecture.(Courtesy of @ acezhanggg: Instagram)
芹壁為馬祖保留最大最完整的閩東傳統建築部落。|The Qinbi Tribe retains the largest and most complete collection of traditional Eastern Min architecture.(Courtesy of @ acezhanggg: Instagram)

來到芹壁部落,當然不能忘了造訪馬祖必吃餐廳「沃小吃部」品嚐最道地的「老酒麵線」,濃郁的湯頭,搭配那微焦帶有脆度用老酒煮過的荷包蛋,濃醇的酒香令人銷魂。此外,包著花生米、芝麻粒以及甜粉的「黃金餃」,配上清湯,口感嚐起來像是元宵,甜而不膩的滋味讓人忍不住一口接一口。在沃小吃部一定要選面向大海的位置,享受美食的同時,還能欣賞無邊無際的海景,實為人生一大享受。 

When arriving at the Qinbi Tribe,  an authentic taste of the Old Wine Vermicelli Noodles at Jinwo Xiaochibu (鏡沃小吃部) is highly recommended. 

The alcoholic aroma emanating from this rich soup, with a slightly charred, crispy fried poached egg on top, makes for a perfect bowl of soul food. 

Also, take a bite into the sweet potato dumplings wrapped with peanuts, sesame seeds and sweet powder, accompanied by a clear soup — a meal traditionally eaten during the Lantern Festival. 

The flavor is sweet but not greasy, making it easy to eat one dumpling immediately after the other. At Jinwo Xiaochibu, just choose any spot facing the sea, lay back and enjoy the food, the ocean — just enjoy the moment! 

來到芹壁部落當然不能錯過鏡沃小吃部的老酒麵線。|When you come to the Qinbi Tribe, you can’t miss the Old Wine Vermicelli Noodles served at Jinwo Xiaochibu. (Courtesy of @i.am.olafood:Instagram)
老酒麵線|Old Wine Vermicelli Noodles (Courtesy of @i.am.olafood: Instagram)
黃金餃|Sweet potato dumplings (Courtesy of @i.am.olafood: Instagram)
坐在鏡沃小吃部大啖美食,享受無敵海景,絕對是人生一大享受。|Sitting at Jinwo Xiaochubu, enjoying delicious food with the unmatchable view of the ocean is a memory you will keep for a lifetime.(Courtesy of @i.am.olafood: Instagram)

 

 

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